Our string of good weather, good luck and spectacular New Zealand scenery is about to be put to the ultimate test as we head out across the alpine grassland (tussock) on our final mission with Evan and Leah… to ascend Mount Doom (Mt. Ngauruhoe for all of you non Lord of the Rings fans). Could we do as well as Frodo and Sam and conquer this mountain? [I know, we are not supposed to try to “conquer” mountains in this post-modern world, but leave it aside, this is the mountain that has come to represent absolute evil in the universe (Hollywood). It needs to be conquered!].
Day 1, Friday, December 2: There had been some clouds on the horizon (not literally as it is a bright sunny day). The weather report had been ominous such that we had tried to shift reservations earlier in the week to a day earlier… But the campsites were booked. But now the latest weather says this afternoon will be showers, but tomorrow, the ascent day, will be fine, with a storm scheduled to roll in late on the third day (hopefully after we arrive at our hut). Day 1 is a simple four-hour traverse of the grasslands to our homey campsite by the hut. The mountain looms clearly above us, the scenery magnificent. The evening rain rolls in, less than we expect. Early to bed and all is set for the morning ascent.
Saturday, December 3: Early rise, no shine. Still, we can see the first ridge and the clouds on the peak are predicted to lift. Mist is in the air. A good early start (for us)… But not early enough to miss the hordes, the 500 plus people who start to tramp by us up the trail from their day hike drop off nearby (have you ever seen a remote mountain parking lot up a gravel road that had multiple lanes for tour bus drop offs?). They are doing this very famous 20 km alpine crossing (with a 2400 foot ascent), not counting our side trip up the peak… Most have only light daypacks so they are endlessly passing.
All shapes, ages and sizes zip and lumber by… those decked out in full gear, the Kiwis with shorts (even in cold weather), the jocks with a t shirt and shorts and nothing else, the woman limping with a reconstructed duct tape shoe, and the 10 year old with a prosthetic leg... Oh my god. Didn’t they read the multiple large trailhead warning signs… “Are you prepared? This is a dangerous high altitude crossing with unpredictable weather…” The approaches to Mt. Doom are not for the faint hearted or ill equipped, but here are a bunch of them. Frodo and Sam did not have to put up with this sort of crowd… This is not our idea of a romantic alpine peak ascent. Strike 1 for the mountain!
The track starts up and the low plants and mosses give way to black lava fields and steep slopes. The clouds settle in, the rain jackets come out, the mist thickens and the ridge envelopes with fog. Up we go with the hordes, bothered but feeling strong after three weeks of tramping elsewhere.
More rock, more lava, more black, more people…
To the ridge… more clouds, less visibility, more rain. No reason to go for the summit… what would we see beyond our hand? Strike 2 for the mountain…
But we can still get across the ridges and craters to our hut for the night. The clever WarPoTay trip planner has forseen possible bad weather and planned a route with a second opportunity at the peak the next day, we can conquer the mountain yet!… Up to the next ridge… more rain, wind, cold, fog… then a short brightening, a limited lifting...
Would the clouds rise and give us a full view? Would the weather clear?... We stop for lunch to wait as the final hordes pass, wet and desperate to get off the ridges. Eureka, the lower crater clears for a minute… woomp… then driving rain, wind, climbing through scree across the most exposed ridge.
Pictures cease for fear of a drenched camera. Over the top and down to the hut… A tiny hut by NZ standards, crammed with people who are drenched and shivering. The camp site is a mud puddle and the new weather posting: Today- “occasional showers; Tomorrow: “heavy falls”; Following Day: “Rain”. Strike 3 for the mountain and we are out.
We abandon our conquest… two unplanned hours out to the day hike car park. A friendly New Zealander ferries us back to our car and by late evening we are warm in our Hamilton beds.
Sunday, December 4: We wake up dry as the rain pours down. A good decision but the mountain wins. We plot a return in the “Fall” with Shane and Chaiti. We have not measured up to Frodo and Sam!
